on the trail of the wild Sonoran hot dog
The very first part of the fellowship program which has brought me to sweltering Tucson actually took place one snowy weekend in January in Denver. That was where we first met our sponsoring schools and mentors and discussed program details and plans for the summer. I got the lowdown on my project and after a lot of shop talk about all the details of the fellowship, we moved on to small talk and of course the first thing I asked about was food. I asked the group what only-in-Tucson specialties I should try while there and Leslie excitedly said, “Sonoran hot dogs!”
This was the perfect answer in so many ways. First, I’d never heard of such a thing. Second, it involves hot dogs.
So here’s how you make a Sonoran hot dog: take a hot dog and wrap it in bacon (always a good start). Grill it, then stuff it into a bun. Top with beans, salsa, green chiles, cheese and mayo. Serve with a grilled pepper. All of this preferably occurs street-side from a truck (which probably also serves tacos).
Needless to say, I was sold and for the 5 months that came in between the time I first heard about these local delicacies and the when I got here, I told anyone who’d listen about the Sonoran hot dogs.
So it’s kind of surprising, actually, that I was in town a full 5 days before actually tracking one down.
We decided to start with the place that every Tucsonian seemed to recommend, a place called BK Tacos. They’ve been around forever and started life as a taco and hot dog stand in South Tucson and have moved up the fast food chain to include two indoor restaurants with tables and flat-screen TVs. We ordered the famous dog, plus some other goodies on the menu.
introducing… the Sonoran Hot Dog!
The hot dog arrived and… well, I was a little underwhelmed. I looked at that flaccid bun and the spray of mayo and said, “Is that all there is?” And actually eating the thing didn’t really improve my impression. I mean, it was fine, but it I just thought it would go through the roof, is all, and really it was just a gooey, bland hot dog.
But! there’s much more to recommend BK’s. We got a side order of their fire-roasted chiles in some kind of amazing yum sauce on the recommendation of the server — and holy cow! they were so flippin’ good ! I’d come back just for those.
chiles ahogados
We also got a caramelo (which is basically a quesadilla with carne asada) which was tastier than such a simple thing had the right to be — and was especially good soaked in the pepper juice.
Feeling a bit disappointed and still hungry from our BK hot dog experience, we decided to try the second most recommended place for those indigenous dogs in town, El Guero Canelo. It wasn’t too far so we swung by there and ordered one more dog, plus another caramelo. Oh, and some flan. You know, for balance.
While BK was all dark wood and blasting pop music, El Guero was bright, bright, bright and full of colorful memorabilia. Plus! there’s a huge self-serve condiment bar right in the middle which includes such unusual items as grilled green onions and roasted jalapenos.
the condiment bar at El Guero Canelo
El Guero’s roasted chile
we got a wide array of condiments
Ok, so the hot dog:
Looks familiar now, doesn’t it? So this one was much like its predecessor at BK. Maybe a little more flavorful. Remember how I said the hot dogs were wrapped in bacon before grilling? I didn’t even realize that at BK. Here I could at least taste the smokiness. Aside from that — and the stellar condiment bar — it was pretty much the same meh experience.
We left our mini hot dog crawl declaring that we were done with the Sonoran hot dog. Maybe you had to grow up with them to have such a fondness in your heart for them.
But!
At work the next day the librarians convinced me to try just one more place. This one was not a restaurant, but a street cart in the parking lot of a discount grocery store called Food City. It was already sounding better to me than the other places — that’s a lot of street cred for one little hot dog cart. So that weekend, the Sonoran Hot Dog Brigade set out once again.
After getting a little turned around, we finally found it thanks to Regina who with her eagle eye saw the word “Hot” on the side of a truck in the parking lot and we zeroed in from there.
That’s Chris waiting in line to order while an impatient Tucson native looks on. Note that if you’re short the 2 bucks you need for a dog, there’s a check cashing place next door to Food City
the menu
si, si!
Like BK and El Guero Canelo, this stand had a little condiment bar, but it was much, much smaller than the others. No worries, though, because the salsa was excellent.
a pleasant assortment of condiments even at the truck
But we weren’t here for the salsa, we wanted a hot dog. And may I introduce you to…
the best — but still final — Sonoran hot dog
So this one had great bacony flavor, flavorful beans and had the added benefit of atmosphere. It was definitely the best of the three… and yet… I feel pretty confident in saying it will still be my last. It was good, but still nothing spectacular and I still don’t grok the dog. I’m writing it off as a Tucson thing and will leave it at that.
However!
It will probably not be my last trip to this cart as they had many other tantalizing treats in store for us, like…
birria tacos!
carne asada caramelos!!
both of these kick the ass of the yappy little Sonoran hot dog clear across town. Since visiting here I keep trying to come up with excuses to cruise by and pick up another birria taco.
Chris and Regina, happy from tacos, caramelos and, yes, hot dogs, too.
and to make the place even better, there were tomatoes growing in the cracks of the sidewalk nearby — presumably the seeds got there from over enthusiastic salsa consumption. These guys look like they’ll be ready to get into the family business pretty soon.
feral tomatoes
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